Saturday morning, I set out to find the philosopher Wittgenstein’s cabin. I had wanted to go since I first heard about it, and this was the day! Wittgenstein wanted an inaccessible place, a place where there was room to think. He found this place in Skjolden, a tiny, tiny village in the innermost cranny of the Sognefjord.
Map from Kartverket
The Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway, and the third longest in the world. Let me explain a bit about the concept of fjords here on the west coast. The fjords are “arms” of the sea jutting inland. The fjord landscape here in Sogn is quite dramatic, with mountains ascending straight up from the water’s edge most places, so most of the area is water and steep mountain sides. There are flatter areas and valleys here and there, if not, people wouldn’t be able to live here. The climate is good though, and the area is beautiful. Sogn can also be a bit inaccessible, some of the roads are very narrow, and for course if you want to go somewhere, chances are you will have to take at least one ferry. This inaccessibility was what drew Wittgenstein to the Sogn area, in Wittgenstein’s words:
So; I was really excited to go and see the philosopher’s hiding spot for myself. The day started very promising, the sky was overcast, the weather seemed perfect for such an adventure. I did not bother to check the forecast, because it had been so unreliable lately, but I brought my rain jacket just in case (the weather decided to be sunny for the majority of my adventure). I was ready to go. I had a good Spotify playlist, something to drink, a fully charged phone, and my hiking boots. The drive was going be about two hours, but I knew the last part of the road was really narrow. I was prepared to take my time and enjoy the landscape.
As you drive inwards along the Sognefjord, the water becomes increasingly turquoise. It almost doesn’t seem real. The colour comes from glacier water, and there’s mor of that as you get further towards the innermost “crannies” of the fjord. Before I reach Skjolden, the road is only wide enough for one car. The car closest to a meeting place must stop and let passing cars by. It mostly works fine, but you have to pay attention to other cars at all times. Everything went smoothly though, and I started to look for the road to the parking. I had to stop to check google maps, and I was almost there. When I found the right road, the rest was easy. I recognised everything from pictures and maps I had looked at beforehand. Speaking of hands…
The hike
I parked by the hand and started walking. In the beginning it was flat and even. Like a walk in the park, literally. Then it became steeper.
Steeper….
And steeper…
And steeper…
Finally, I reached Wittgenstein’s cabin. I guess finally is a stretch. The hike wasn’t very long, but the last part WAS pretty steep. The cabin was perched on a cliff’s edge, almost an eagle’s nest type situation. The cabin has a high stone foundation, so I was BARELY able to peek into one of the windows, barely. I could see a table set up for writing, there was a light source (oil lamp? I think) and writing paper. I could also see a small table by the window at the opposite side from where I was on my toes, the table was set with a teapot and TWO cups! I thought that was funny, because I don’t think he had visitors that often. He himself used to row across the lake to Skjolden for his groceries and mail, I think most of the path has been created in later years.
The experience summed up
I was able to sit up by his cabin and look at the view all by myself, until I wanted to leave. I did meet people on the way up, and on the way down, but it worked out perfectly. I feel like I had the perfect Wittgenstein’s cabin experience!
10/10 would recommend.
